St Leonard’s Holy Well at Dunnamaggin Co Kilkenny

Nov8

St Leonard (St Léonard-de-Noblat) was a sixth century Frankish hermit. He went on to become a very popular medieval saint. The saint’s primary shrine was found at Noblat in France. Over the centuries vast numbers of people from all over Europe made pilgrimage here. Devotion to the saint was enhanced by his shrine’s location on the Via Vézelay – a well trodden pilgrimage route- to the St James in Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

Pilgrim badge from the shrine of St Leonard at Saint-Leonard-de-Noblat, France dating to the 13th-14th century (https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/28996.html)

St Leonard was the patron saint of imprisoned people and women in labour. Medieval descriptions of his shrine recall that it was adorned with offerings of iron chains and shackles left by pilgrims who believed they were released them from their captivity due to the saint’s intercession (Gerson et al 1998, 47).

St Leonards cult also came to Ireland but never achieve a widespread popularity. A holy well dedicated to St Leonard can be still be found in the village of Dunnamaggin Co Kilkenny.

St Leonard’s Holy well Dunnamaggin Co Kilkenny surrounded by a circular hedge

I have come across only two other dedications to the saint. The first, St. Leonard’s Priory, a monastery of Fratres Cruciferi or Crutched Friars, was established in the medieval town of Dundalk in the twelfth century. The priory was, founded by Bertram or Nicholas de Verdun and was situated in the grounds of the present county library. The second dedication was located in the medieval town of Waterford where a chapel dedicated to St Leonard was located in the Benedictine priory. The saint’s feast day was also recorded in The Book of Obits and Martyrology of Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin where the last entry for November 6th reads

Et sancti Leonardi abbatis et confesson
Crosswaith 1844, 71

St Leonard’s cult probably arrived in Dunnamaggin area with the Anglo-Normans. The holy well is located a short distance from the ruins of the medieval parish church of Dunnamaggin, also dedicated to St Leonard.

The 1st edition ordnance survey 6 inch map for the area tentatively point to another cult associated with the well. The well is clearly marked as St Rynagh’s well on the map.

1st edition 6inch maps showing St Leonard’s holy well marked as St Rynagh holy well OSI map.

Rynagh is the anglicisation of Ríoghnach. The saint may be the early medieval female saint, Rioghnach of Kilrainy in Co Kildare. Interestingly the contemporary Ordnance Survey Letters of Kilkenny written in 1839 only associated the well with St Leonard and makes no mention of St Rioghnach at all. She is not mentioned in Carrigan’s The history and antiquities of the diocese of Ossory either or in any local folklore sources.

The well is located in a field beside the main road through Dunnamaggin village. The field can be easily accessed through a style in the boundary wall.

St Leonard’s Holy well Dunnamaggin Co Kilkenny is surrounded by circular hedge

The well is enclosed by a circular hedge and a small metal gate provides access to the interior. The hedge respects the line of an earlier circular enclosure, which was ‘ almost levelled’ by the 1900’s (Carrigan 1905, 38).

The holy well is a natural spring. Its waters fill a circular stone lined hollow set flush to the ground. On one side there is a over flow which takes the water into a stone drain.

The well is over looked by a modern statue niche now filled by a metal cross bearing the saint’s name and a number of mature trees.

Some years ago the well was restored by the current land owner and a local committee. It is very clear that the well and surrounding area are maintained on a regularly basis, the day I visited the grass had been recently cut.

The schools collections, local folklore and antiquarian sources record a number of traditions associated with the well. Like many other Irish wells it was said the water would never boil.

Another tradition held that St Leonard provided protection to local people from lightening.

St. Leonard prayed that no one within three mile of Dunnamaggin would be struck by lightning. His prayer was granted.
The Schools’ Collection, Volume 0853, Page 069

The well was once the focus of great devotion but was in decline by the mid-19th century. According the Ordnance Survey Letters 1839

There was a patron held here formerly, on Saint Leonard’s day, but what day that was nobody now remembers.
Ordnance Survey Letters [92-93]

It is not entirely true that the saints feast day was forgotten the schools collection for Dunamaggin school from the 1930s mention that

until recent years a pattern used be held there annually on the 6th November.
The Schools’ Collection, Volume 0853, Page 068

The 6th of November is the feast day of the saint. The schools essays for Newtown, Kells also note

The well was visited by people on the second or third Sunday in November and there are prayers said there by the people who visit it.
The Schools’ Collection, Volume 0858B, Page 02

Pilgrimages were also made in the summer months

Kilmaggany people visited it (St Leonard’s Well) during the month of July and took a drink of the water & washed their feet in the stream which flows from the well. It was believed to cure pains in the limbs.
The Schools’ Collection, Volume 0852, Page 294

Other cures are associated with the well’s waters include a cure for sore eyes.

The water would cure sore eyes when washed three times on different days. There is a big flag-stone at the side of the well.
The Schools’ Collection, Volume 0852, Page 295

The pilgrim landscape extends beyond the well and includes a tree called St. Leonard’s Tree. I didn’t have time on my visit to find the tree. In times gone by pilgrims visited the tree as part of their pilgrimage rounds. Carrigan noted that mass used to be celebrated beneath it. Like a number of other holy trees it was believed to have protective properties

Until recent years natives of the place would never think of emigrating without bearing away with them a sprig or chip cut from Crownsanleeanarth [name for the tree], as a preservative against shipwreck on their voyage to foreign lands.
Carrigan 1905, 38

During the cholera epidemic of 1832

people carried about with them little scraps from the bush to save themselves from the prevailing epidemic.
Carrigan 1905, 38

In the past people often turned to holy wells in times of crisis and outbreaks of disease. The well house at Abbeys well, in the parish of Kilshannig in North Cork was built in the 1870’s to give thanks for the saint expelling disease from the parish. Over the door is a stone plaque that reads “St, Abigal Expelling The Plague A.D. 1872,”

Carrigan in 1905 notes the order of the former rounds undertaken by pilgrims.

The pilgrimage used to begin within the enclosure, at the well ; was continued thence to the road ; and then along the road, to the present chapel, where it ended.
Carrigan 1905, 38

This is confirmed by the schools collections.

Rounds were made there long ago – people used go from the Well to the Church.
The Schools’ Collection, Volume 0852, Page 293

An alabaster statue of the saint was discovered at well in the 1800s and was then given to the care of St. Kieran’s College but is now in possession of the current owner of well.

In 1800, Brennans found a stone statue, which they kept in Dunnamaggan, in the well. It is about one foot high & represents a bishop dressed in sacred vestments & holding a staff in his left hand. The head was broken off & lost. The statue is the same as that on the foot of the Dunamaggan Cross. In 1875, Mr James Brennan handed it over to St Kieran’s College Museum where it is still to be seen
The Schools’ Collection, Volume 0852, Page 293

Carrigan noted that after the statues discovered before it was given to St Kierans College it was used to swear upon. There are many medieval references to medieval statues and relics being used in oath taking.

… in cases of dispute among the neighbours, the contending parties were accustomed to make declarations with hand placed upon this statue, believing that testimony thus given had all the binding force of an oath.
Carrigan 1905, 38

The radio station KCLR has a made a lovely radio documentary about the well which is worth taking a listen to.

Episode 7 – St Leonard’s Well

Biography

Carrigan, W. 1905. The history and antiquities of the diocese of Ossory. Dublin : Sealy, Bryers & Walker.

Crosswaite, J. 1844. The Book of Obits and Martyrology of the Cathedral Church of the Holy Trinity: Commonly Called Christ Church. Dublin. For the Irish Archaeology Society.

Curran, A. 1971.“The Priory of St. Leonard, Dundalk.” Journal of the County Louth Archaeological and Historical Society, vol. 17, no. 3, 131–140.

Gearson, P., Krochalis, J., Shaver-Crandell, A. and Stones, A. 1998. The Pilgrim’s Guide to Santiago de Compostela: A Critical Edition. London: Harvey Miller.

Hennig, J. 1944. “St. Leonard in Ireland.” Journal of the County Louth Archaeological Society, vol. 10, no. 4, 297–301.

Herity, M. (ed) 2003, Ordnance Survey Letters Kilkenny. Dublin: Four Masters Press.

Website

Schools Collections https://www.duchas.ie

https://kclr96fm.com/documentary/episode-7-st-leonards-well/embed/#?secret=uFn1FTo1Sl

https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/28996.html

St Leonard’s Well, Dunnamaggin, Kilkenny

Saint Nicholas an Irish Connection

Dec24

Given that it is Christmas, this post has a slightly festive theme. It will explore the development of the cult of St Nicholas and the saints’ connections with medieval Ireland.

St Nicholas of Myra

St Nicholas was born in the 4^th century and following his death, his cult developed and spread across the Christian world. He was a very important saint and was the patron saint of merchants, sailors, prisoners and children. Today he is venerated in both the Orthrodox and Catholic church. Over time his cult developed into the modern Santa Clause tradition.

Map of modern day Turkey showing the territory of Lycia

St Nicholas was born into a wealthy family in Asia Minor in a place called Patara (in the modern-day Turkey). He became bishop of the port town of Myra in the territory of Lycia.

An image of St Nicholas being carried to his burial-place (http://www.omhksea.org/2011/12/saint-nicholas-archbishop-of-myra/)

The site of his grave soon attracted pilgrims and Myra became a thriving pilgrimage destination. It is thought that the site of the saints grave is located within the 9^th century church of St Nicholas on the outskirts of Myra. This church sits on an earlier 6^th century church which tradition holds was built over the grave of the saint. Within the present church , there is a sarcophagus which is thought to have held the remains of the saint.

St Nicholas’s tomb at Myra (from http://www.obgtravel.com/DemreE.htm)

Throughout his life , St Nicholas performed many miracles and acts of kindness. Fresco’s within the church depict scenes from the saints life, such as healing the sick and Nicholas saving the Basileios from the Arabs.

The church of St Nicholas at Myra (http://www.sacred-destinations.com/turkey/kale-church-of-st-nicholas-myra.htm)

The church at Myra remained a place of pilgrimage even after the remains of St. Nicholas were stolen in 1087 AD by Italian sailor from Bari and brought to the port town of Bari in Italy where they remain to this day. Tradition holds that in their haste the sailors left fragments of the body in the grave and these were collected by Venetian sailors during the first crusade and then brought to Venice. They were then placed in a church dedicated to the saint an on the Lido. Over the centuries there was much disagreement between Bari and Venice as to who had the true relic of the saint. Interestingly Professor of anatomy Luigi Martino at the University of Bari has examined both the remains at Bari and Venice and concluded that the fragments of bones in Venice were complementary to the bones in Bari. His investigations suggest that the bone are from the skeleton of the same man ( http://www.stnicholascenter.org/pages/relics-in-the-lido-of-venice/ ).

Thanks to the relics of the saint, Bari soon became a great centre of pilgrimage. Following the saint’s death in the 4th century his body was said to exude a clear liquid called manna or myrrh which was believed to have miraculous powers. When the skeleton was moved to Bari it continued to exude this clear liquid which was called ‘manna of the saint’. Pilgrims believed the manna had special healing powers . The manna was diluted and made available in bottles decorated with images of the saint. Every year on the feast day of the translation of St Nicholas relics to Bari a great festival takes place which culminates in the extraction of the manna by the rector of the Basilica (this you tube link shows this ceremony

St Nicholas’ tomb at Bari (http://www.stnicholascenter.org/pages/relics/)

So what of the saints connections with Ireland?

The earliest evidence for the cult of St Nicholas in Ireland occurs in the Hiberno Norse town of Dublin. In 1038, Sigtrygg Silkbeard Olafsson, king of Dublin, with the support of Dúnán the bishop of the city, founded Christ Church Cathedral, with a chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas (Bairéad 2010). For a really interesting discussion on the introduction of the cult of St Nicholas to 11th century Dublin see Eoin Bairéad’s article Nicholas and Dublin reference given below.

In the medieval period his cult was found in Gaelic and Norman communities alike. Dedications to St Nicholas are found attached to holy wells and medieval parish churches across the entire island of Ireland. At present I am putting together a database of all medieval sites dedicated to the saint. Hopefully by this time next year I will be able to share more information on the distribution of the cult in Ireland.

One of the most beautiful medieval churches dedicated to St Nicholas in Ireland is the medieval collegiate church in Galway city.

St Nicholas’s collegiate church Galway

Churches and chapels dedicated to the saint are also found in the port towns of Drogheda and Waterford. Additional dedications are found at Dunsany Co Meath, Clonmel, Co Tipperary and Newtown Jerpoint Co Kilkenny. Holy wells dedicated to the saint are found in the counties of Kerry, Limerick , Meath and Waterford .

Given the popularity of St Nicholas I see no reason why Irish pilgrims to Rome or Jerusalem would not have visited Bari or Venice. The Via Francigena was one of the main pilgrim routes to Rome and from Rome it continued south to the port of Bari. Bari was also one of the departure points for the Holy Land and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. Within Ireland local pilgrimages were made to holy wells dedicated to the saint across the country. I hope to discuss these pilgrimages further in another blog post.

Another likely place of pilgrimage within Ireland is the deserted medieval town of Newtown Jerpoint Co Kilkenny. I visited Newtown Jerpoint yesterday and had such a lovely time . This unique site is in private ownership but it’s owners Joe and Maeve O’Connell have opened this special place to the public. I highly recommend a visit here and if anyone is interested in visiting check out their website www.jerpointpark.ie

Located close to the great Cistercian foundation of Jerpoint Abbey. The medieval town of Newtown Jerpoint was founded c.1200, shortly afterwards a church dedicated to St Nicholas was built to cater for the towns growing population. The town fell out of use in the 17th century. The remains of the town are preserved today as a series of earthworks but the guided tour really makes the landscape come alive and you get a real sence of what the town was like .

Artists reconstruction of the medieval town

So what of the sites connection with pilgrimage? Although extensive records for the town’s history exist there are no references to medieval pilgrimage here however tentative evidence may be suggested by the tradition that St Nicholas of Myra was buried here. The Newtown Jerpoint conservation plan notes that ‘according to local legend , there had been fourteen wine-taverns among the trading establishments of Jerpoint.’ There are some who think that the large amount of taverns may have existed to cater for pilgrims.

View of St Nicholas’s church at Newtown Jerpoint

So tradition holds that St Nicholas’s grave is marked by a large medieval grave slab. The slab has been dated to the early 14th century by John Hunt (1974, 197). The slab has an effigy of a cleric dressed in a full chasuble (outermost liturgical vestment worn by clergy), his hands are raised palm-outwards on his chest. On his feet are pointed shoes. Above each shoulder are two heads one wearing a mitre-like head-dress and the other a pill-box type head-dress.

14th century grave slab which local tradition holds marks the burial-place of St Nicholas

Local tradition holds that this figure depicts St Nicholas and the heads are two crusaders who brought the saints remains back to Ireland. The tale tells of a band of Irish-Norman knights from Jerpoint, traveling to the Holy Land to take part in the Crusades. On their return home to Ireland, they seized St Nicholas’ remains, bringing them back to Kilkenny, where the bones were buried.

Another version of the story tells of a French family, the de Frainets, who removed Nicholas’ remains from Myra to Bari , in 1169 when Bari was under the Normans. The de Frainets were crusaders to the Holy Land and also owned land in Thomastown, Ireland. After the Normans were forced out of Bari, the de Frainets moved to Nice, France, taking the relics with them. When Normans lost power in France, the Nicholas de Frainets packed up once again, moving to Ireland. This story has the relics being buried in Jerpoint in 1200.

Like all legends there is probably some truth to this. I think it is unlikely that the body of St Nicholas was brought here, if it had such an important saint would most certainly have been placed in an elaborate shrine (most likely within the church). However it is my opinion that the church was in possession of one if not two corporeal relics of St Nicholas. Norman knights from Kilkenny did participated in the Crusades to the Holy Land so it is possible one or two of them brought some relics back with them. I think that over time this legend developed and attached itself to the near by burial slab which most likely depicts a cleric associated with the church or nearby Jerpoint abbey. Recently a second grave slab of a similar date has been uncovered at the site and it also depicts a cleric.

Second medieval slab http://www.igrsoc.org/tomb_find.htm

Any church in the possession of a relic (s) had the potential of attracting pilgrims and I see no reason why pilgrims would not have come here to pray to St Nicholas. A holy well located a short distance from the church, also dedicated to St Nicholas was another possible point of devotion and there was a tradition that the water was a cure for skin complaints.

St Nicholas’s holy well

Even if St Nicholas is not buried here Newtown Jerpoint is a very special place. The sites owner Joe told me he feels a strong connection with St Nicholas and the site and he suspects the saint is buried here. He also told me that since the site has been open to the public there have been many happy coincident which have connected people, the saint and the site. So if you get the time take a visit to Newtown Jerpoint.

Bibliography

Bairéad, E. 2010. ‘Nicholas and Dublin’, In eds. Davies, M., MacConville, U. & Cooney, G. A grand gallimaufry: collected in honour of Nick Maxwell. Dublin: Wordwell.
Hunt, J. 1974. Irish Medieval Figure Sculpture. 1200-1600. Irish University Press.

http://jerpointpark.com/newtown-jerpoint-co-kilkenny-ireland/

http://www.stnicholascenter.org/pages/ireland/#i_354

http://www.sacred-destinations.com/turkey/kale-church-of-st-nicholas-myra.htm

Click to access Newton_Jerpoint.pdf