pilgrimage in Cork « Pilgrimage In Medieval Ireland

Any of you who follow me on twitter or Facebook will know that Richard Scriven and I have just finished writing a book about pilgrimage in Cork City called Wells, Graves & Statues. Exploring the heritage and culture of pilgrimage in medieval and modern Cork City.

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Its been a really exciting journey, over the course of our research we discovered a rich and complex range of pilgrimage sites within the city some of which we had not heard of before. The pilgrim sites of Cork stretch from medieval time down to the present with the latest edition a labyrinth garden in the grounds of St Fin Barre’s Cathedral opening in 2015. There is also lots of variety in the site types that include a medieval cathedral, holy wells, medieval statues and graves.

The books came back from the printers last week. There was a lot of anticipation and excitement opening the boxes , how does the book look ? will people like it? Thankfully Richard and I were very pleased with the results. We are very thankful to all who helped us along the way, those who provided information and access to sites, commented on drafts of the book etc.,

Our book would not have been possible without the help of Cork City Council and who provided funding through Cork City Council’s Heritage Publication Grant Scheme 2015. We would also like to thank Niamh Twomey the Heritage Officer, of Cork Citywho provided great support and advice throughout this project.

On Wednesday night our new book – Wells, Graves and Statues – was launched by the Bishop, Dr Paul Colton, in St Fin Barre’s Cathedral, Cork

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St Fin Barre’s Cathedral image courtesy of Abarta Audio Guides

I can’t thank enough everyone who took the time to join us, family, friends, history and pilgrimage enthusiasts, some of whom traveled from outside the county to be here. Their presence made it a wonderful event,

As the oldest pilgrimage site in Cork, St Fin Barre’s Cathedral was the perfect place to launch our book and we both feel very privileged and honored to have been given permission to host our launch here. We could have not found a more splendid setting and all who attended the launch took time to explore and admire the interior of this magnificent building.

The event kicked off with a welcome was given by the Dean of Cork, the Very Reverend Nigel Dunne.

The Very Reverend Nigel Dunne welcoming everyone to the launch.

The book was then officially launched by Bishop Colton who gave a wonderful and entertaining speech.

Bishop Colton launching our book Wells Statues and Graves photo Neil Jackman

Launching the book Bishop Colton said:

‘This is a very readable book which draws deeply on our strong sense of place, not least in Cork. It is a multi–layered, interdisciplinary book which draws on the expertise of these authors – Richard and Louise – in their respective fields of geography and history, and archaeology and Celtic civilisation. More than that, there are impulses of theology, spirituality and folklore. Above all else, the book touches on that deep–seated nerve of the human spiritual quest on our journey through life.’

Richard and I then said a few words about the history of pilgrimage at the cathedral, and the significance of the book. The night concluded with tea and biscuits giving us a chance to chat to those who attended and sign a few books.

Richard and I presenting a copy of our book to Bishop Colton

I can not thank St Fin Barre’s Cathedral enough for making us feel so welcome and facilitating us on the night.

For any of you who missed the launch our book is available in a number of places around Cork City & County:

Sunday’s Well Post Office

Liam Ruiséal Bookshop Oliver Plunkett Street

Beneditus Bookshop North Main Street

Midelton Bookshop

For those of you outside of Ireland our book can be purchased through amazon

Amazon.fr (€), Amazon.co.uk (£), or Amazon.com ($), and as an e-book on Kindle from Amazon.co.uk (£) or Amazon.com ($)

Our website Corkcitypilgrimage will have regular updates relating to retailers and upcoming talks.

http://ireland.anglican.org/news/6046

The 24th of June is the feast of St John the Baptist. This day also coincides with the pagan celebration of mid summer and many pagan traditions continue even down to modern times such as the tradition of lighting bonfires. There are many holy wells around Ireland dedicated to St John the Baptist and pilgrimage is still undertaken on the saints feast day at a large number of them.

Location Map of St John’s well at the edge of Carrigaline town (taken from Google Earth).

On Sunday last, St John’s Eve I attended the annual pilgrimage to St John’s well in the town of Carrigaline, Co Cork. St John’s well or Tobar Eoin Óg is located in small wood in the townland of Ballinrea on the outskirts of the town of Carrigaline. Also attending the pilgrimage was Richard Scriven (Geography UCC) who is currently doing very interesting PhD research on modern pilgrimage in Ireland. For more details of Richard’s research check out his blog liminal entwinings.

St John’s Well

The 1st ed Ordnance Survey map of 1840 records the well as St Rinoge’s well elsewhere it is called Renogue’s well . Rinoge/Renogue is likely a corruption of Eoin Óg the Irish name for the well.

The site consists of a spring well covered by a corbelled structure, beside the well is a large tree surrounded by a low circular wall with a stone plaque which provides a short history of the site.

St John’s well

A number of benches are located at the site and steps made of railway sleepers make the site more accessible. A small stone altar is located opposite the well.

Lewis’s Topographical Dictionary of Ireland dating to 1837 gives the following account of the well

At Ballinrea there is a mineral spring, which is considered to be of the same kind as that of Tunbridge Wells, and has been found efficacious in cases of debility; and near it is a holy well, dedicated to St Renogue, which is resorted to by the country people on the 24th of June.

The Carrigaline Parish websites states that

According to tradition the well was discovered by a blind man whose sight was restored. In gratitude he built the beehive shaped stone surround, which can be still seen today.

It is recorded that in the early 19th century huge crowds of people attended a patron/pattern day on St John’s Eve (23th June) at the well.

According to the plaque at the well, the water has healing powers and it is customary for pilgrims to say a decade of the rosary at each of the inscribed crosses that are found in the walls of the well house. The practice of incising crosses is seen at many other pilgrim site such as St Declan’s well at Ardmore, Co Waterford and the practice seems to be a post medieval and modern tradition.

Well house showing one of the incised pilgrim cross over the door of the well.

Modern Pilgrimage on St John’s Eve

It is an annual tradition for the people of Carrigaline and the surrounding area to visit St Johns well on the eve of the saints feast. It’s a tradition which likely goes back generations. Pilgrimage in 2013 began with pilgrims gathered on the Ballintrea road close to the Dun Eoin housing estate at 7.15 pm. People stood around and chatted and waited for others to arrive. When a crowd had gathered at 7.30 the Carrigaline pipe band began a processional walk to the well. The band was immediately followed by the parish priest who was then followed by the rest of the people ( pilgrims). The Procession headed along a lane way with a signpost for the well, past some house, then on to a grassy lane which leads down into a grove of trees. The band played throughout the procession and were really excellent.

The Carrigaline Pipe Band heading the procession to St John’s well.

Pilgrims in procession to the well

The walk was very pleasant and took about 5-10 minutes to complete. When we all arrived at the well the band took a well deserved brake and lines up beside the alter. The rest of the people assembled around the clearing facing the stone alter opposite the holy well . There were two priest from the parish of Carrigaline present to lead the prayers.

The prayers began with the sorrowful mysteries (five decades of the rosary an explanation of rosary is in the references below). The parish priest lead the prayers and moved around the well clockwise, in the same manner as any pilgrim visiting the well to perform the stations would do.

The a cross was incised with a small stone at each of the crosses around the well.

When each decade of the rosary is begun the pilgrim takes a stone and scratches a cross into the incised stone.

Pilgrim incising cross on one of the stones

These stones five in total are located around the well and have deeply incised crosses. The crosses have been created by generations of pilgrims who visited the well.

Cross incised by pilgrims at back of the well

Following the rounds of the well there was a ceremony called Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament for those of you who don’t know what that is it is a devotional ceremony, the sacrament (host) is displayed in a monstrance in this case on the small stone altar opposite the well. The a priest blesses the congregation with the Eucharist at the end of a period of prayer.

A number of hymns were sung by the choir and played by the pipe band such as ‘Faith of our Fathers’. When the ceremony finished many of those present lined up and took water from the well. Some of them incised the cross over the well door. Unlike other sites people didn’t seem to bring water bottles with them.

I returned to the well the following morning, to see what it was like without the hustle and bustle of people. It really is one of the most beautiful wells I have visited and so peaceful with lots of singing of the birds.

References

http://www.carrigalineparish.ie/index.php/parishhistory/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benediction_of_the_Blessed_Sacrament

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosary