Gravestone recording at Ballylanders, Co Limerick.

This week  I called up to Ballylanders in Co Limerick, where my good friend archaeologist  Colum Hardy and a team  of local volunteers are recording the historic graveyard known as Ladywell. Colum is employed by the Ballyhoura Development company who are currently recording all of the historic graveyards in the Ballyhoura area. Like the graveyard recording in the Knockmealdown area (NewcastleShanrahan and Tubrid Co Tipperary)   which I have previously written about,  the Ballyhoura project began with community training by John Tierney and Historic Graves in March 2012.  A series of training programmes were put in place in a number of local communities.  According to Colum ‘ With the ongoing and increasing interest and support and dedication from an army of volunteers from the Ballyhoura Region the project has continued with well over 70+ historic graveyards now recorded.’  As the graveyards are recorded the results are placed on the Historic Graves website .  The work from the project has built up a huge genealogical repository of information for the region  and is being availed of by people all over the world who have traced their roots to the area.

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Medieval church at Ladywell,  Ballylanders.

The graveyard surrounds a late medieval church which is now covered in a dense covering of ivy which obscures a pointed cut stone door way and an ogee headed window.  According to the notice board the church is known as the spittle church. Interestingly ‘spittle’ as a placename element usually indicated the presence of a hospital. The townland to the east of the church is called Spittle.

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One of the volunteers recording the gravestones.

The graveyard  that surrounds the church has a number of fine examples of 18th and 19th  gravestones. A number of the stones have images of the passion on it.

1-DSCF3187One of the  oldest stones is found close to the east gable it is a simple slab with  IHS design with a cross extending from the H. The left side of the stone is damaged but it is still possible to read the inscription.

1-DSCF3144This stone record the death of Daniel Cremin who died the 12th of Dec 1741 aged 70 along with Patrick Cremin who  died Oct 7, 1776 aged 9 years.  On the north side of the graveyard is an elaborate grotto which incorporates a holy well.

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Grotto and holy well at Ballylanders.

The well is known as  Lady well and is dedicated the Blessed Virgin.  The water from the well is traditionally held to cure sore eyes. According to the notice board at the site, in 1840 a rag tree once stood beside the well.  The well is still visited by local people and a pattern still takes place here on the 15th of August.

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Holy well dedicated to the Blessed Virgin  at Ladywell, Ballylanders.

References

http://historicgraves.com/

http://visitballyhoura.com/

List of Genealogical Sources for the area at http://visitballyhoura.com/index.php/2012/06/12/genealogical-resources/

Black Dog Holy Well, Kilmallock, Co Limerick

Black dog well is situated on the side of the  Tipperary/ Kilmallock road just on the outskirts of Kilmallock town.  It consist of a  small spring well enclosed by a rough stone wall.  The well is tear shaped and a series of stone steps provide  access at the narrow end.

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Black dog holy well, Kilmallock.

A small grotto with a statue  of the Blessed Virgin and Child is located beside the well.  Votive offerings in the form of immaculate medals, rosary beads and brown scapula are found on top  of the grotto and draped around the statue.  According to the Limerick Diocesan web site, the travelling community  maintained the well.  The area surrounding the well was landscaped last year but luckily there has been little change to the well structure.

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Small grotto at Black dog, holy well.

The old name for the well was Tubberidinee, which derived from Tobar Rí and Domhnaigh (The King of Sunday’s well) which must have been an older name for the well. Today the well is known as ‘Black Dog’ holy well, this names comes from a folk tradition that at night a black dog comes out of the well.  According to Ó Danachair, the well was associated  with eye cures and people who were cured reported  seeing eye a trout in the well.

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Statue of the Blessed Virgin and Christ child at Black Dog holy well.

Interestingly all the statues at the well suggest an association with the Blessed Virgin but a local man who I met at the well tells me that well is associated with St Brigit.

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Votive offering including holy medals and brown scapular.

References

Ó Danachair, C. 1955. ‘The holy wells of Co Limerick’ JRSAI, Vol. LXXV, 193-217.

Seoighe, M. 2012. The Story of Kilmallock. Kilmalock Historical Society.

http://www.limerickdioceseheritage.org/Kilmallock/sitesKilmallock.htm

Irish traditions and the Infant of Prague

The Infant/Child of Prague is a small wax medieval statue of the  Christ child, adorned in an elaborate robes, housed in the Carmelite Church of Our Lady Voctorious in Malá Strana, Prague.  Copies/reproductions of this statue were at one time  found in the majority of Catholic homes around Ireland.  This little statue was called upon for help to ensure good weather for family occasions such as wedding, communions  and confirmations.  Prague is a long way from Ireland so  how did the tradition of this statue from the Czech Republic arrive in Ireland?

The origins of the statue

The very early history of the statue is obscure but it appears to have been made in Spain and  the Spanish noble woman Isabella Manrique  gifted the statue to her daughter  Marie  on the occasion of her wedding to the Czech nobleman Vratislav of Pernstyn. Later the statue came into the possession of her daughter the Princess Polyxena von Lobkowicz, who in 1628 presented the statue to the Carmelite friars  at the church of the Virgin Mary the Vicorious in Malá Strana, Prague.

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An early German copy of the statue, note the white wig as opposed to the traditional blonde hair. circa. 1870

During the 30 years war the monastery was sacked and the statue lost.  Some years later in 1638  Fr. Cyrill found the statue on a rubbish  heap  in the ruins of the church. He  placed the statue back in the church and one day while praying before it  the priest  heard the statue utter the words

Have pity on me, and I will have pity on you. Give me  my hands, and I will give you peace. The more you honor me, the more I will bless you.

The statue was later restored to its former state and the damages  such as the loss of its hands, that had occurred over the years, were repaired.   In the ensuing years any miracles were performed  and devotion to the statue grew steadily and spread. Over the years  tiny and very elaborate vestments were given as gifts to the statue. In 1713 the caretakers of the statue began to change the robes of the statue according to the liturgical norms. The statue has a wardrobe of around 100 hundred vestments. In 1913 Pope Pius X established a confraternity to the Infant of Prague and today over 2 million people visit the shrine annually.

Irish devotion and traditions

Devotion to and small replica statues of the Infant of Prague became popular in Ireland in the late 19th to early 20th century in Ireland.  Over the years the statue has become linked to Irish wedding customs. Although there are some variations, most  customs insist on placing of the statue outside  of the brides house under a hedge or bush in the garden to  guarantee  fine weather.  Some people say the statue needs to be outside the church where the wedding is to take place and  others even go so far as to bury it in the garden.  The custom developed from a belief that the statue can control weather. The statue was even used to try to aid  good weather for this years G8 summit by Ferghal Purcell the general manager of the Lough Erne Resort, the location where  the summit was being held.

Navan born actor and former bond star Pierce Brosnan engaged in the custom  for his wedding to Keely Shaye Smith.

We got married in Ballintubber Abbey and held the reception in Ashford Castle, it was August and I remember this old woman telling me we had to get a Child of Prague statue and put it outside the west corner of the building to make sure it didn’t rain. The Child of Prague is a little statue of Jesus dressed as a king and it’s an old tradition to put it out the night before a wedding. So I staggered out after my night out with the lads and many Guinnesses into the gardens of Ashford Castle and found a hydrangea bush and put the statue in it (Taylor 2013).

There is also a tradition that  the power of the statue was strongest if its head has been knocked off  but his had to happen “accidentally”.

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Headless Infant of Prague photo provided by Maura Wall Barret.

Another Irish tradition was that people would place a coin under the statue  to ensure the house would never be hungry or in want

References

Ferguson, S. 2013. ‘Religious statue believed to guarantee good weather’ BBC News’ http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-22783440

Taylor, R. 2013. ‘Child of Prague ensures Brosnan’s big day is shaken, not soaked’ Irish Times http://www.irishexaminer.com/ireland/child-of-prague-ensures-brosnans-big-day-is-shaken-not-soaked-232781.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infant_Jesus_of_Prague#cite_note-2

http://catholicheritage.blogspot.ie/2011/10/child-of-prague.html

http://www.navstevapapeze.cz/places/prague/church-of-our-lady-of-victory-infant-jesus-of-prague%5Ben%5D

Halloween and the Feast of All Saints

The modern celebration of Halloween draws on Christian and pagan traditions. The word Halloween derives from ‘All Hallows Eve’, in turn ‘All Hallows’ was  another name for the feast of  All Saints.

All Saints

All Saints is celebrated on the 1st of November within the Catholic  church and commemorates all of the saints and martyrs. The tradition of  commemorating the saints and martyrs dates back to the 4th Century.  In 608  Pope Boniface IV decided to remember all the  martyrs on one special day and the 13th of May was designated as the Feast of All Holy Martyrs.  In 837 Pope Gregory IV extended the festival to remember all the known and unknown  saints . The festival was renamed the Feast of All Saints  and the 1st of November was chosen for the festival.

The Martyrology of Oengus  written circa 800 records the Irish keeping All Saints on the 1st of November but additional  feasts of All Saints of Europe on the 20th of April and All Saints of Africa on the 20th of December. Later the 1st of November became the sole commemoration date for All Saints in Ireland.

In  medieval times the church held a vigil on All Hallows’ Eve. During the vigil  worshippers would prepare for the feast day with prayers and fasting.

 

The 2nd of November is the feast of  All Souls  a day which commemorates the faithful departed. The feast  began in the 11th century and was connected with Christian concerns with death and purgatory. Later a popular belief developed that the souls in purgatory could  on this day appear  back on earth  to haunt those who had wronged them. The souls would take the form of ghost, witches or toads. (Farmer 2011, 14). It was also believed  one could help the dead  on this day  by giving alms in the form of coins or food (ibid). In Britain a small round cake called soul cake was made and  the cakes were given out to soulers (mainly consisting of children and the poor) who would go from door to door on Halloween,  singing and saying prayers for the dead.

Over time these medieval beliefs were subsumed into the popular customs for Halloween which is  now celebrated on the Eve of All Saints. The modern Halloween is a combination of Christian traditions regarding the feasts of  All Souls and Saints and the pagan festival of Samhain.

An Irish tradition that I remember well from my childhood was the  of lighting a candle in the window on the Eve of All Souls so that the souls could find their way. As a child I remember my grandparents and my mother honouring this tradition.

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If anyone is interested in finding out about Halloween tradition check out the blog post  An Irish Halloween by the Silver Voice .

In Ireland, it was tradition to light a candle and place it in the window for each of the departed. In the evening, say your prayers around the candle before – See more at: http://www.irishcatholic.ie/article/celebrating-all-saints-and-souls#sthash.OzRjf7mv.dpuf

References

Falmer, D. 2011. The Oxford Dictionary of Saints. Oxford: Oxford Press.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/religion/religions/christianity/holydays/allsaints_1.shtml

http://www.catholic.org/saints/allsaints/

http://www.ucc.ie/celt/online/G200001.html

All Souls Day is celebrated to honour the faithful departed. – See more at: http://www.irishcatholic.ie/article/celebrating-all-saints-and-souls#sthash.OzRjf7mv.dpuf
All Souls Day is celebrated to honour the faithful departed. – See more at: http://www.irishcatholic.ie/article/celebrating-all-saints-and-souls#sthash.OzRjf7mv.dpuf

Relics on tour. St Anthony of Padua visits Ireland.

Last Thursday the relics of St Anthony of Padua arrived in Ireland. The relics and their caretakers are on a whirlwind  tour of Ireland that takes in Dublin, Wexford, Cork, Limerick, Galway and Belfast, from the 17th  to the 24th of October. Each of these locations  will become centres of pilgrimage for the duration of the relics visit.

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St Anthony of Padua.

Who was Saint Anthony?

St Anthony  was born in Lisbon in 1195.  At the age of 15 he joined the Augustinians but later  became a  Franciscan Friar. Anthony was a favourite disciple of St Francis of Assisi, the founder of the Franciscans. He was also a great orator and  teacher. He died in 1232 and was buried at Sancta Maria Mater Domini Church outside the walls of the town of Padua. Many miracles occurred at his funeral and continued to occur at his tomb in the months that followed. Due to the great devotion to the saint he was canonized  just a year after his death.  Like many other medieval saints Anthony’s body was exhumed  and in 1263  it was moved to an elaborate tomb in the Basilica in Padua.

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St Anthony’s Basilica Padua.

  St Anthony’s relics have come to Ireland  to mark the 750th anniversary of the translation of his relics (the moving of the saints body  from the original grave to a new tomb/shrine)  and the discovery of his incorrupt tongue. St Bonaventure who  presided over the  opening of Anthony’s coffin, discovered that the saint’s vocal organs and tongue were intact. “Oh blessed tongue, that ever praised the Lord and led others to praise Him!” St Bonaventure exclaimed. The saint had been known as a wonderful preacher of the Gospel and it was thought this was why the tongue was still preserved. The relics are said to have worked many miracles and are still venerated to this day.

 St Anthony is  the patron saint of lost things .  I remember as a child when I  or any of my family lost something   my mother would say “pray to St Anthony and he will  find it for you” .  The prayer was ” St Anthony seeks St Anthony finds”.

St Anthony comes to Limerick.

Today for one day only,  the relics of the saint were on display at St  John’s Cathedral in Limerick city.  I headed  along  to see the pageant.  The two relics – a small piece of bone from the Saint’s rib and a layer of St Anthony’s cheek were accompanied by  two  Franciscan Friars also from Padua. Both relics were housed inside two elaborate reliquaries and were displayed in front of the altar of the church.

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Reliquary containing the rib of St Anthony.

Today’s pilgrimage began with mass at 10am. Fr Mario Conte, the international editor of the Messenger of St Anthony magazine , gave a sermon on the relevance of relics in today’s church and he also discussed the importance of St Anthony. The relics remained on display for the rest of the day, and following the mass, hundreds of devotees, lined up throughout the day  to  venerated the relics.

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Pilgrims waiting to see the relic’s of St Anthony.

As I watched the pilgrims approach the relics I was struck by the similarities between these modern pilgrims and  the descriptions I had read  of medieval pilgrims at  European shrines.  Medieval pilgrims did their best to get as close to the saints’ relics as possible and if permitted  they would touch and kiss the relics of the saint. Pilgrims also liked to take away secondary relics known as  Brandea,  pieces of cloth, usually linen, that had touched  the saints relics.

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Pilgrim kissing the reliquary of St Anthony.

 The  Limerick faithful formed an orderly queue up the central aisle of the church. When the pilgrims reached the relics they touched or  kissed the reliquary.  Some pilgrims  brought pieces of cloth or rosary beads  with them and pressed them against the relics, creating secondary relics, that they then took away with them as mementoes of their pilgrimage. A modern twist on this pilgrimage was the use of mobile phone to take photos of the relics as a memento.

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Reliquary containing the saints flesh.

The relics will now travel to Galway city where they will be on display  tomorrow. From Galway they will travel to Dublin and then on to Belfast before heading back to Italy via Britain.

Reference

http://www.advertiser.ie/galway/article/64492/st-anthonys-relics-to-visit-galway-cathedral

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Saint_Anthony_of_Padua

In search of a cure: the pilgrimage of James Shee to Lady’s Island, Co. Wexford in 1694.

The 17th  and 18th centuries in Ireland were a very interesting time in the history of Irish pilgrimage. Society experienced many changes, the Catholic religion practised by the majority  became second to Protestantism the new religion of the state. It was a violent time of political upheaval and social change in which various conflicts culminating with the Cromwellian conquest  of  1649-53, and the later Williamite Wars  of 1689-91, resulted in a major shift in the social structure of Irish society, with the Irish catholic aristocracy being largely replaced by a new English protestant ruling class.  Additionally churches and monasteries were dissolved, as were the monastic orders who controlled them, continuing the work of the reformation initiated by Henry VIII in the 16th century. State laws were imposed to curtail the religious freedoms of those who did not follow the state religion. Monasteries and churches were stripped of their valuables and many of the precious relics of the medieval period such as the Bachall Íosa or the miraculous statue of Our Lady of Trim were destroyed by iconoclasts. During the medieval period  the majority of pilgrim sites were controlled by religious orders but  following the dissolution the church often had little input into how the  sites  were accessed. Pilgrimage in  a sense now came to be  controlled of the pilgrims. Pilgrim rituals adapted and changed  to these new circumstances, becoming more fluid and less formal. Despite the efforts of  the State to suppress pilgrimage, the practice continued and in some cases thrived at a local and regional level.

One of the more interesting stories of pilgrimage from this period is found in the papers relating to the Power Shee family in the National Library of Ireland.  Within these records are the papers of Mary Kennedy (1733-1784) whose maiden name was Shee. Mary transcribed a list of family births and deaths from her father William Shee’s prayer-book. The original list was written by William Shee (1694-1758) and his father, James Shee (1660- 1724) of Derryhinch/Derrynahinch Co Kilkenny.

Mary’s grandfather James was born in Derryhinch/Derrynahinch in 1660 to William Shee and Ellen Rothe. Both William and Ellen were descendants of prominent Kilkenny Merchant families. James began a tradition later  continued by his son William of recording important life events in his prayer book. The list began with the date of James marriage to Mary Trapps (1660-1706) on the 25th of May 1684 (Ainsworth & MacLysaght 1958, 250). He subsequently recorded the birth of their children.  Their first child William was born Friday the 8th of May 1685 but died sometime later. A second son George was born on the 11th of April  1686,  the following year a daughter called Ellen was born ‘…Saturday the last of December 1687 between 7 and 8 in the morning.’  Elizabeth was born in June 1690 and a son Henry on  the 13th November 1691. Another son who was also called William was born  in 1693.  In the prayer-book James writes the child  was taken very ill on the  20th of March 1693 and wrote ‘I promised to make him a Church man if I found he had vovation’ but the  boy died on the 8th of May the following year. Shortly after the child’s death another boy child was born in 1694 and he was christened  William (Ainsworth & MacLysaght 1958, 250-251).

Some time in 1693/94  he writes

My daughter Ellen being very ill, I promised to make a pilgrimage to Our Lady’s Island, in honour of Our blessed Lady. This performed’ (Ainsworth & MacLysaght 1958, 250

Having lost two children James and his wife must have been very frightened for Ellen. We do not know what sickness the child had but  the mortality rate for children was very high in 17th century Ireland. James and his wife are likely to have been able to afford medical care but as there had been few medical advancements since medieval times medical intervention had limited success. The death of children from what are today preventable and curable illnesses was a harsh reality for parents rich and poor.The decision for James to undertake a pilgrimage and to turn to the Our Lady for help is very understandable in the context of the time. Throughout the medieval period and up to early modern times there was a very strong belief that many diseases were caused by divine intervention. There was also a very strong belief in the power of the saints to heal and certain pilgrim sites were known for their healing powers. Even today there are holy wells around the county held to have the power to cure ailments related to certain parts of the body such as eyes, skin, and limbs etc. that still attract pilgrims in search of a cure. Vows of pilgrimage undertaken in times of crisis were common throughout the medieval and post medieval period.  Additionally it was not uncommon a person to perform pilgrimage on behalf of a loved one who was too ill to travel.

James’s daughter Ellen was 6 or 7 years old when she fell ill and was too young and sick to undertake a pilgrimage on her own, so it was logical that her father would go on pilgrimage on her behalf.  Lady’s Island was located in the southeast corner of Wexford in the barony of Forth and Bargy some 80km from Derryhinch. During the 17th century a unique dialect of old English called Yola  was widely spoke by the inhabitants of this area of Wexford. The language of the area would have been difficult to understand for outsiders like James.  The journey to and from Kilkenny would have taken a few days to complete.  So why would James have travelled here?

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Lady’s Island 1833 taken from The Dublin Penny Journal, Volume 1, Number 30, January 19, 1833

Lady’s Island  is still an active pilgrimage site today.  Tradition holds it has been a place of pilgrimage from the 6th century and it continues to attract pilgrims to this day. For the purpose of this post I will only focus on the evidence for pilgrimage here in the 17th century.

During the 17th century Lady’s Island was a pilgrimage site of regional importance. In the early 1607 Pope Paul V issued a plenary indulgence to all who visited here on the Feast of the Nativity of Our Lady (8th September) and on that of the Assumption (15th August).

Lady’s Island was also  known as a place of healing. An account of the island written in the 1680’s  states of the island

a church, builded and dedicated to the glorious  and immaculate virgin Mother; by impotent and infirme pilgrims,  and a Multiude of persons of all Qualities from all provinces  and parts of Ireland, daily frequented, and with fervent devotion visited, who, praying and making some oblacions, or extending charitable Benevolence to Indigents there residing, have there miraculously cured of grievous Maladyes, and helped to the perfect use of naturally defective Limmes, or accidentally enfeebles or impaired Sences.  (Hore 1862,  61)

Given the site’s status and its association with healing it makes sense that James would come here. Unfortunately he does not record anything of this pilgrimage other than it was completed. Given that the saints power was held to be at  its strongest on the saints feast day its likely. if timing permitted, that the pilgrimage would have tried to target one of the Marian feast days.

According to Colonel Solomon Richards, writing in 1682, the ‘most meritorious’ time to visit Lady’s Island was  between the 15th of August and the 8th of September (Hore 1862, 88)

Richards also describes the ritual practice of the pilgrims and we can assume that James completed his pilgrimage in one of the manners described below:

And there doe penance , going bare-leg and bare foote, dabbling in the water up to the mid leg, round the island. Some others goe one foote in the water, the other on dry land, taking care bot to wet the one nor to tread dry with the other. But some great sinners goe on their knees in the water around the island and some others that are greater sinners yet, goe three times round on their knees in the water.

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Modern pilgrims walking along the edge of Lady’s Island

According to Richards the pilgrimage culminated with the making of offerings at the chapel on the Island. This was most likely the ruined medieval church.

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Ruins of the medieval church on Lady’s Island

Having completed his pilgrimage James would have returned home. Ellen recovered from her illness and lived to adulthood  and is recorded to have married William Mulhall. James continued to write the births and deaths of his family in his prayer-book and following his death in 1724 the tradition was continued by his youngest child William.

James and Ellens story is one that was paralleled in medieval times and even modern times, and shows how a father was prepared to do all that he could to save his child .

References

Ainsworth, J. & MacLysaght, E. 1958. ‘No 20, Survey of Documents in Private Keeping:Second Series’ Analecta Hiberbica, Vol. 1, 3-361; 363-393

Church Records pertaining to the Shee family at http://records.ancestry.com/James_Shee_records.ashx?pid=52588493

Gillespie R. 1997. Devoted People. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 90-91.

Hore, H. 1862. ‘Particulars Relative to Wexford and  the Barony of Forth: By Colonel Solomon Richards, 1682.’ The Journal of the Kilkenny and South-East of Ireland Archaeological Society, Ser. 2, Vol. IV, 84-92.

Lady’s Island, County Wexford, in 1833. http://www.libraryireland.com/articles/LadysIslandDPJ1-30/index.php

Lady’s Island website http://www.ourladysisland.ie/

National Library Manuscripts. Reference #32383: Power O’Shee Papers (from 1499), the property of Major P. Power O’Shee, of Gardenmorris, Kilmacthomas, (now in the National Library of Ireland), relating to the families of Shee of Sheestown, Co. Kilkenny and Cloran, Co. Tipp., and Power of Gardenmorris. XX (1958).

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19th century Folk Art at The Famine Warhouse in Ballynagarry Co Tipperary

Last Saturday I visited the  site of the 1848  Ballingarry Famine Warhouse a two storey farm-house in the wilds of east Tipperary. It gets the name warhouse as it was the location of  the principle scene of action in the 1848 Young Irelander rebellion. A visit to the house is a must for anyone interested in this period of Irish history. The exhibition is very well done and it is  free entry too.

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Ballynagarry Warhouse

I am very interested in Irish folk art especially  art relating to personal devotion in the 18th-19th century. As I wander around the exhibition within the  house, I came across  a small wooden plaque sitting above the fireplace now painted in a thick yellowish paint. The plaque has a cross design with a hand craved image of the the sacred heart above it.   It has two tin metal straps on either side that were originally used to  attach it to a wall. There is also a loop  at the top which may also be  have been used for attachment to a wall. At the base there is a strip of timber with nails which appears to be a more recent addition. 1-phome 031

According to the tour guide this  plaque was found within the house during renovations but its original location within the house is unknown. This piece likely dates to the late 19th early 20th century and it is an example of devotional folk art.

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Incised sacred heart at Ballynagarry

Similar type artefacts were  found in vernacular house around the country during the 19th -early 20th century unfortunately few survive today.

References

http://ballingarry.net/warhouse/index.html

From Carlow to Jerusalem: The extraordinary story of a 19th century Irish Pilgrim

One of the most fascinating pilgrim stories that I have come  across  in the course of my research is the tale the Irish priest  Father Joseph Braughall.   The following account is based on an article written by Gerard MacRory  published in the Irish Monthly Journal of 1950. The article in turn appears to be based in the personal correspondence of the priest and Vatican archives.

In 1821, Fr Braughall then aged 41, was the parish priest of Graignamanagh, Co Carlow (not to be confused with Graignamanagh Co Kilkenny).  He became very ill and  to use the old term ‘took the bed’.  Fearing for his life, like many medieval pilgrims before him,  the priest vowed he would make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land if he recovered. Braughall made a recovery although he was to be plagued throughout his life with recurring ill-health. Shortly afterwards he began preparations for his pilgrimage.

The Bishop of Carlow Dr Doyle granted the priest  a leave of absence and he sold his belongings.  In the summer of 1822 he set sail to France with £5  in his pocket . Given the geographical location of Carlow its likely he set sail from Dublin or the port towns of New Ross or Waterford.  He arrived safely in France  and travelled on to Paris where he became ill again. Fearing that  his ill-health would prevent his pilgrimage to the Holy Land he wrote to the Bishop Doyle informing him that he planned to travel to Italy to join the Carthusian order instead. The Cartusian’s were founded by St Bruno in the late 11th century and their life style  combined  eremitical and cenobitic life.

When he was well enough he travelled to Rome. His health must have improved as he changed his mind about becoming a hermit and decided to continue with his  planned  pilgrimage.  Braughall  proceeded to the  Vatican where he received an audience with Pope Pius VII.

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Pope Pius VII

Pope Pius VII  blessed Braughall’s pilgrim habit and  presented him with documents of authentication necessary  for his journey to Jerusalem, Syria and Palestine.

Father Braughall left Rome and with great difficulty  managed to secure passage on a ship sailing to Cyprus in the Italian port of Livorna, (known in English  as Leghorn). He continued this journey from Cyprus  to Beirut in Lebanon on board a  felucca,  a wooden sailing boat with a distinctive sail used in the Mediterranean, the Red Sea and the Nile.

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Painting by  Thomas Chambers (English-born American artist, 1808-1869) Felucca off Gibraltar.

From Lebanon Braughall managed to secure  passage with a trade caravan  travelling to Jerusalem.

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Image of a Trade Caravan to Tumbuktu in 1850 from Travels and Discoveries in Northern and Central Africa by Prof. Dr. Heinrich Barth, vol. iv, London 1858)

When he finally arrived in Jerusalem he was physically in a weakened state and his  finances were exhausted.

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Jerusalem (El-Kouds). First view of Jerusalem from the south / American Colony, Jerusalem. (http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/matpc.06533)

At this time the Holy Land was part of the Ottoman Empire. Any  pilgrim wishing to enter any of the pilgrim sites such as the Holy Sepulchre could only do so at certain times and upon payment of a fee to the Governor of the city. Fr Braughall  requested  and was granted an audience with the Governor of the Provence.  The priest must have made a good impression on the  Governor  as he was granted a free  pass  to all the shrines in Jerusalem. Having completed his pilgrimage which included praying for 9 days and nights  within the Sepulchre church, while existing on bread and water, he  set off on his return journey.

We are told he travelled to Cairo in Egypt  but became ill with fever and dysentery. While in Cairo he stayed with a small religious community. The community appear to be Franciscan missionaries  and consisted of  four priests and two lay brothers. Within days of Braughall’s  arriving  the community had succumb to his illness and died and he was forced to bury them. Braughall may have felt some responsibility for their deaths as he  stayed on in Cairo and took over their duties until he was relived. MacRory states up to 40000 people died in the city during this outbrake.  Once his replacements arrived with the help of  the English Consul he received passage from Alexandria back to the port town of Livono in Italy.

We are not told what he did next  but his health  deteriorated yet again and for the next few years he seems to have drift through Portugal and Spain. In 1838 he returned to Carlow penniless  where he remained  for a short time as a guest at  St Patrick’s College in Carlow town. He had been away for 16 years.

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St Patrick’s College Carlow

The President of the college Dr Fitzgerald invited him to stay permanently but he refused deciding instead to return to Italy to live out his days as a hermit.

In 1839 Braughall set out again for Italy and travelled to Vesuvius where he tried  to enter one of the many hermitages dotted along the mountain slopes. The church authorities of Naples  in whose jurisdiction the hermitages were  became aware of his presence and were suspicious of his motives. They demanded to see his papers of identification which he could not produce. He was  then forced to write to the Sisters of the Presentation Convent at Carlow appealing to them to approach the bishop and to ask for a letter stating who he was and  of his former pilgrimage to the Holy Land. It is interesting that he did not write directly to the bishop.

Eventually a letter arrived from the bishop and was presented to the authorities but they  still remained suspicious and  demanded the letter be authenticated by the Holy See.  Once the  Vatican confirming his  story Fr Braughall left Naples and joined the  Benedictine monastery at Mount Cassino.

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Monte Cassino Monastery

Fr Braughall became well-known and admired  for his piety. According to MacRory

It is recorded that when  the King of Naples and his family visited Mount Cassino they found Father Braughall  kneeling in adoration before the Tabernacle. The royal party, preceded by the King, reverently took up and kissed the hem of Father Braughall’s habit, while he, unconscious of their presence in the depth of his devotions, prayed on.

Fr Braughall made one final pilgrimage to the Holy Land following the vision of  what he believed was his Angle Guardian. He died in 1850 and was buried at Mount Cassino  along way from Carlow.

Reference

Gerard MacRory. 1950. ‘Pilgrim Priest’,The Irish Monthly Vol. 78, No. 925, 314-318

Pilgrimage in Medieval Waterford

This blog post is a brief review of the evidence for pilgrimage in the town of Waterford during the late medieval period. The information comes from a paper I am working on about  the archaeological evidence for pilgrimage in medieval Ireland.

Medieval Waterford

During the late 1980’s large areas of the medieval and Viking town of Waterford were excavated and the results published in the much sought-after book Late Viking age and medieval Waterford : excavations 1986-1992. These excavations were hugely important and have provided vast amounts of information, answering questions about how people lived and how the city grew and developed over time.  The majority of the artefacts from the excavations are on display in the Waterford Museum of Treasures. The  museum is a fantastic place and I would highly recommend a visit if you’re in the area. The many beautiful and rare artefacts on display show the domestic, military, trade and religious life of the medieval town of Waterford. Among the items on display are two tiny artefacts which provide evidence of personal devotion and pilgrimage.

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The medieval town of Waterford by Rubicon’s Sara Nylund.

The  artefacts in question are pilgrim badges purchased by medieval pilgrims who lived in Waterford.

Pilgrim Badges

From the beginning of Christian pilgrimage continuing to modern times, pilgrims  have been bringing home mementoes of their pilgrimage for example earth/dust from the saint’s tomb/grave, holy oil or water from the shrine but it was not until the 12th century that souvenirs were mass-produced and sold to pilgrims.

The badge  was  the most popular type of pilgrim souvenirs.  They were made of  made of lead or pewter making them cheap to manufacture and very affordable. Each badge was  decorated with  an image relating to the shrine it was sold at for example the  badges from the great shrine of Canterbury  depicted St Thomas á Beckett or scenes of the saint’s martyrdom.

To date there is no definitive evidence that  pilgrim souvenirs were produced at Irish shrines but the recovery of pilgrim souvenirs from urban and burial excavations across  Ireland tells us many Irish pilgrims were engaged in long distance pilgrimage abroad during the later medieval period and purchased souvenirs as mementoes of their pilgrimages.

Pilgrimage and Waterford

Waterford like other Irish  port towns  had strong links with pilgrimage. There would have  been  a constant flow of pilgrims embarking on and returning from foreign pilgrimage via the wine  and trade ships. Some of these pilgrims would have lived within the town walls, others came from the surrounding hinterland and some travelled long distances to reach the port. Most of the pilgrims who left Waterford are anonymous. We do not know who they were or where they went on pilgrimage.

One Waterford citizen whose pilgrimage was recorded was the  Mayor of Waterford James Rice (1467-1486).  Rice made two pilgrimages to the shrine of St James at Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain in the 15th century. The first pilgrimage was made for the Jubliee year of 1483.

Archaeological Evidence of Pilgrimage from Waterford

Analysis of the two badges found in Waterford suggest they were produced on the Continent.

One of the badges is circular in shape. It was made of a tin-lead alloy and depicts the face of a bearded man, probably St John the Baptist. Similar style badges have been discovered at London and Canterbury. It is likely that the English and the Waterford badges represent the relic of the head of St John the Baptist, which was removed following the sack of Constantinople in 1204  to Amien Cathedral in France.  This relic was a major draw for pilgrims throughout the medieval period. Today it continues to draw pilgrims mostly from the Orthodox church but on a much smaller scale.

The badge was found in the backyard of a 13th century sill-beam house which may suggest someone who lived in the house had acquired the badge on pilgrimage and lost or  thrown it away at a later date.

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Pilgrimage badge depicting the relic of St John the Baptist Head found during excavations of Medieval Waterford. Image (c) of Waterford Museum of Treasures.

The second badge  is extremely interesting.  It is unique with no other example of its type found elsewhere. It is  rectangular in shape and depicts the death of an unknown saint who is tied to a tree while a man with a hooked stick/bar  beats him. The badge bears the inscription  + SIGL/LVM: IONANNI/S: CRVCIFIX/I: A IVDEIS: P (the seal (or sign) of John, crucified by the Jews at P). The design and style of the badge suggests  that it was produced in France but  its exact origins are unknown. This badge  was also found in a 13th century context in association with a domestic setting.

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Pilgrim badge from unknown shrine on display at the Waterford Museum of Treasures.

Although countless Waterford pilgrims travelled within and outside of Ireland on pilgrimage the majority leave no trace of their journey. The discovery of these badges is very exciting. The badges provide additional destinations of  Irish pilgrims  not recorded in any of the historical records.  The badges also mark pious acts  carried out by  two of the citizens of Waterford. They are  personal items owned, touched and worn by the pilgrim who purchased them and provide information on the devotion to the saints. While it is generally accepted that  pilgrimage was an important part of medieval life, most pilgrimages go unrecorded and it is only through the discovery of artefacts such as pilgrim souvenirs that we can answer some of the many questions pertaining to pilgrimage in medieval Ireland.

 References

Hurley, M. F. 1997. Late viking age and medieval Waterford: excavations 1986-1992. Waterford: Waterford Corporation.

McEneaney, E. (ed.) 1995. A History of Waterford and its Mayors, from the 12th century to the 20th century. Waterford: Waterford Corporation.

Rubicon Heritage, 2012. Recreating the Earliest Image of an Irish City: The Waterford Charter Roll

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Molana Abbey, Co Waterford

Molana abbey has been on my list  of  places to  visit for a such a long time and I finally got my chance this week and boy was it worth the wait!!

The abbey is  located  on an island in the Blackwater estuary on the  Ballynatray estate just outside of Youghal. On private property the site is open to the public during the summer months on  Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursdays.

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View of Molana Abbey, hidden among the trees

History of the Molana

Molana was  founded in the 6th century by a little known Irish saint  called  Maol Anfide, a contemporary of St Mochuada of Lismore. The saint  built a monastic settlement here on a small island  called Dairninis  or the ‘island of  the oak’ . No architectural evidence remains of this early settlement and today the ruins on the island date to the late 12th and  13th century.

In 1806 Dairninis  Island was joined to the mainland by a causeway and bridge  by Grice Smyth the then owner of the Ballynatray estate.  I was delighted to see oak trees still growing on  the island and along the causeway continuing the tradition of the place-name origins for the site.

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Causeway leading to Molana Abbey

Turtle Bunbury’s excellent blog post Molana Abbey from the Stone Age to Dissolution tells of the sites early history

By the early 8th century, Molana was a major stronghold of the Céili Dé (Servants of God), a monastic order determined to reform the church. Its abbots subsequently played a key role in the subsequent introduction of Continental ideas to Ireland. Indeed, as Dr Dagmar Ó Riain-Raedel noted in her thesis on the island, the Abbey’s greatest hour came in about AD 720 when its Abbot, Ruben Mac Connadh of Dairinis, working with Cu-Chuimne from the island monastery of Iona, produced the Collectio Canonum Hibernensis. This was a profoundly valuable and important book for the church, written in Latin, effectively dictating the first rules of Canon Law. Its very title reflects its origin as a compilation of over two hundred years worth of canon law and synodal decrees. The text itself drew heavily upon previous ecclesiastical regulations and histories, all dating from the centuries prior to 725. It also included papal epistles, acts of synods, eccleiastical histories, a definition by Virgilius Maro Grammaticus, a compusticial tract by Pseudo-Theophilus, spurious ‘Acts’ of the council of Caesarea, the so-called dicta of Saint Patrick and several quotes from all but one of the works of Isidore of Seville.

Indeed, there is reason to believe that Molana Abbey may have been home to the first library in the south of Ireland. Unfortunately, none of these original manuscripts have survived but copies can be found in archives all over the Continent. Collectio Canonum Hibernensis was circulated throughout Western Europe for the next four hundred years

Despite this fascinating early history no physical remains of what was once an important and influential monastery are to be found.

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The ruins of Molana Abbey on Dairinis Island

By the 12th century Molana abbey was re-established as an Augustinian Priory  by Raymond le Gros FitzGerald, who tradition holds was buried here. References to the later history of Molana are sketchy. Interestingly in 1450 Molana was at the centre of a scandal.  Pope Nicholas V compiled a mandate for the investigation of claims that the Prior of Molana John McInery, was guilty of simony, prejury and immorality.

The abbey was granted an indulgence in 1462, by the then Pope Pius II , to all those who came here to pray and to give money to the maintenance of the abbey. Such an indulgence would have made the abbey a focus of pilgrimage for at least the duration of the offering of the indulgence.

The names of some of the later priors of Molana are also mentioned in historical sources.The abbey was suppressed in 1541 and fell into the hands of Sir Water Raleigh. By the 19th century the abbey was in possession of the Smyth family and was a focal point on their estate, with their stunning Georgian mansion looking across at the ruins.

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View of Ballynatray House from Molana Abbey

The Architectural Remains

Today the sites consists of a number of ruined buildings  that date to the late 12th /13th century. The buildings included a  church, monastic buildings and a cloister all  built of a red sandstone, which gives the site a lovely warm feeling . There are a number of cracks in the walls so some of these building do not appear to very stable.

The church is  large (17m x 7.6m)  with an undivided nave and chancel . The nave is the oldest part of the building and appears to incorporated part of an  earlier church. The chancel  was a later addition and dates to the 13th century. It has eleven large lanclet windows (tall, narrow windows with a pointed arch at its top) which must have looked quiet magnificent when the church was in use.

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Undivided church at Molana

The east wall of the church is in a poor state of repair but traces of a decorated  moulded window embrasure still remain.

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Decorated moulding of window in the east wall of church

Attached to the north wall of the chancel are the remains of  a two-story building which was probably used as the abbot’s or prior’s accommodation. It has a fine  pointed doorway of dressed sandstone and a spiral stairs.

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Building on the north side of chancel of church

At the centre of the ruins is a small cloister (19.65m N-S; c. 14.75m E-W). There is no evidence of an arcade but corbels in the outer walls of the surrounding  buildings suggest a roofed walkway.  Today the cloister is dominated by a  19th century statue which depicts the founding saint.

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Cloister of the Abbey

The statue was placed here in 1820 by Mrs Mary Broderick Smyth, the wife of Grice Smyth. A  plaque  on the statue plinth has the following inscription

This statue is erected to the memory of Saint Molanfidhe who founded this abbey for Canon Regular A.D. 501. He was the first Abbot and is here represented as habited according to the Order of Saint Augustine. This Cenotaph and Statue are erected by Mrs. Mary Broderick Smyth A.D. 1820

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Statue of St Mael Anfeid

The saint is dressed in a cloak and robe  with a very pretty floral pattern on the hem.

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Floral pattern on the hem of the statue

The building on the SW side of the cloister has traces of plaster and some  orange paint which may indicate traces of a wall painting. According to the Archaeological Inventory for Co Waterford  in 1908 traces of a wall painting were noted in the refectorum.

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Traces of possible wall painting in the building at the SE side of the cloister

In the same room, a plaque is set into a window embrasure on the south wall. This plaque was also placed here by Mrs Smyth,  and has the  following inscription

Here lies the remains of Raymond le Gros, who died Anno Domini 1186

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Plaque dedicated to Raymond Le Gros set into a window embrasure

The fascinating  history, architectural remains combined with  the stunning setting all  make Molana a truly amazing, spiritual and peaceful place.

References

Bunbury, T.  Molana Abbey from Stone Age to Dissolution

Moore, M. 1999. Archaeological Inventory of County Waterford. Dublin: Stationery Office.

Power, Rev. P. 1898. ‘Ancient ruined churches of Co. Waterford’, WAJ 4, 83-95, 195-219.

Power, Rev. P. 1932. ‘The abbey of Molana, Co. Waterford’. JRSAI 62, 142-52.